By Nishat Anjum
Image Source: NDTV
After a busy day in Delhi city, one boards the crowded metro. The thought of the
destination keeps one going as the yellow line metro reaches the Jama Masjid metro station. The excitement of food fills them with energy as one rushes through vendors and shops on both sides of the road. It starts to smell like Purani Dilli.
The busy lanes of Jama Masjid isn’t news to anyone in the capital city, but a gem in that crown is Abdul Ghani Qureshi Kebab Corner. The burning of red charcoal mixed with the smell of exotic spices invites one to the small shop of kebabs. On the face of it, it looks like a usual shop, but the aroma of the succulent grilled kebabs pulls one furthermore.
One might never know for sure if there is a heavenly afterlife, but when the very essence of these seekh kebabs melt in the mouth. That’s when one experiences nirvana. There is an art to making Seekh kebabs. If heated too much, it becomes rubbery, too less and it remains raw. If the fat is less in the meat, it becomes dry. Too much and it becomes oily and overpowers the taste. There is a balance that needs to be achieved. The makers of wonder at Qureshi’s have finessed that art.
They know a perfect balance.
Seekh kebabs have been a specialty of these lanes since the Mughal era. But they were blessed with Qureshi Kebab Corner in 1970. Haji Abdul Ghani Qureshi is the owner of the shop; he is 83 years old and has been serving kebabs for 74 years now. The shop is managed by the five brothers, famously known as ‘The Qureshi Brothers’. Abdul Ghani learnt the art of making kebabs from his father and now his sons are carrying forward the legacy.
As one eats Kebabs in the Urdu Bazar, one must to indulge themselves in its aura. To call it just a shop is an understatement. It is living history. It takes us back to 1947, when Ghani’s grandfather, fondly called ‘Chote Kebabi’ decided to stay back in India. Chote was the first one to start making kebabs in a small lane near Jama Masjid. Today, Gali Kababian is a renowned lane named after his family.
While the world is changing day in and day out, the Qureshi family has kept their secret recipe a constant. Every visit would leave you with deep satisfaction. Those who have had Qureshi’s kebab, they know the unwritten rule; to keep coming back to this place. The rush and hustle bustle does not discourage them, neither does the long wait one has to go through. After taking a token, the wait goes on for about half an hour. But like they say, the wait is worth the while.
As one indulges itself with seekh kebabs served along with onion rings and green chutney, a gratified thought crosses the mind. This family which originates from Bareilly, Uttar Pradesh, has left an imprint on this city and on all of us, who have had the pleasure to experience their magic and continue to do so.
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